Joinery for Kitchen Cabinet Faceframes Part 1
Joinery for Kitchen Cabinet Faceframes Part 1
Routing 5/8 ” deep mortises in the ends of the rails for 3 faceframes.(Three passes 3/32”, 3/8 ” and then 5/8”) The 1 x 2 is not wide enough for plate joining biscuits so I am using loose tenons. Am replacing 3 cabinets above the kitchen countertop with homemade cabinets. Fixture is made out of 1′ by 1′ 1/2” thick plywood and 1×2. Used a 1×3 to set the width for the center space at 2 1/2 ”. The 2 outer 1×2 enables the fixture to be clamped to the router table fence. Do not use a router bit larger than 1/4, tried my 3/8 and kicked back too much. Made 2 more for true 2″ stock and 1×3
Question by J M.
I have an Kitchen cabinet of unfinished oak and it’s cut to fit the unfinished side to the cabinet. I tried construction adhesive and it feel off what’s the best way to attach it and what glue or nails to use? It’s not like a paper thin veneer it’s like luane and oak on it about 1/16″ thick Thanks 10 pts
Best answer:
Answer by jakeb
Use contact cement or very small finish nails or both.
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About the image:
kitchen cabinet hinge.
By Greg_e
Today, I attached the hinges to the doors and face-frame for the kitchen wall cabinet.
I really like these bronze cabinet hinges from Rejuvenation. The pins slide out.
I’m still chiseling the mortise by hand, which takes a long time. I’d like to get a jig for my router someday.
Notice the screw hole hasn’t been plugged yet.
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Nothing wrong with mortice and tenon joints, but for kitchen cabinet face frames, I think it’s a bit of overkill. With stand alone furniture, the piece can be moved about and jiggled over time, and potentially cause the screws to loosen, especially if not glued. Kitchen cabinets are fastened in and shouldn’t move.
I used pocket screws for a 2 drawer notebook PC desk built after the kitchen project. Worked well with plate joining biscuits to align the panels and the pocket screws to reinforce the joints.
The kitchen remodel was a one time project – time was not a factor.
Hi couldnt you just use pocket hole screws on the face frame its not like your going to see them and it would be quicker for you in the long run,just an idea.
I have improved the fixture since (Do NOT use any bit larger than 1/4″). Chamfered the inner channel boards for better grasp. Also attached a piece to the inner boards parallel to the table 1/8′ above the table. I admit this safely works with rail stock 10″ or more in length – Do not use too short rail stock.
Thanks
Tom
dont think thats the best way 2 do that mate.
If you did use construction adhesive then you used something that is junk. Use liquid nails in a caulking tube and apply to the outter perimeter and in the middle. Apply the skin and make all the glue contact. Now pull it away and count to 25 then put it back on. It will not fall off. We always put a few pin nails in the corners to hold it too.