http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html The Kitchen E-Magazine - all about design, plan, and ideas Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:51:54 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=124 http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-597 d s Wed, 04 Nov 2009 00:14:38 +0000 http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-597 A good fiberglass insulation would do. According to the thickness you buy will determine how warm it will keep the floor. It has to be stapled in plase and you can get it at any of the do it yourself stores like Home depot, loews A good fiberglass insulation would do. According to the thickness you buy will determine how warm it will keep the floor. It has to be stapled in plase and you can get it at any of the do it yourself stores like Home depot, loews

]]> http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-596 c_leasmi Tue, 03 Nov 2009 23:24:51 +0000 http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-596 r 19 will do and staples will not hold it up for long so you need to use something eles just some small thin strips of wood nailed up on the bottom of your floor joist will do also if there is any heat ducts down there if you cut a opening in a heat duct and or try and add a normal adjustable vent register so you can close it in the summer just to add a few degrees of warm air will do wonders to a cold floor and frozen pipes its not to heat the air to normal warm temps but just enough to knock the chill out also if you have outside vents close them off for the winter but remeber to reopen for the summer r 19 will do and staples will not hold it up for long so you need to use something eles just some small thin strips of wood nailed up on the bottom of your floor joist will do also if there is any heat ducts down there if you cut a opening in a heat duct and or try and add a normal adjustable vent register so you can close it in the summer just to add a few degrees of warm air will do wonders to a cold floor and frozen pipes its not to heat the air to normal warm temps but just enough to knock the chill out also if you have outside vents close them off for the winter but remeber to reopen for the summer

]]> http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-595 Luna & Lawnboy Tue, 03 Nov 2009 22:40:02 +0000 http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-595 not sure what the building regs are over there. but in england we use celotex or ecotherm, theres a difference with the density of the celotex to go in the floor but the u value is better and its rigid. hope this helps. not sure what the building regs are over there. but in england we use celotex or ecotherm, theres a difference with the density of the celotex to go in the floor but the u value is better and its rigid. hope this helps.

]]> http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-594 jumpingg Tue, 03 Nov 2009 22:16:13 +0000 http://fundkitchen.com/kitchen-floor-plans/what-type-of-insulation-should-i-use-to-insulate-under-my-kitchen-floor.html#comment-594 Paul's right on the regular fiberglass. Remember that the paper side always is on the side of the living space, so in this case, the paper will be "up". So, it makes stapling a little trickier. You can also put it up with steel rod insulation supports. They come in boxes of 100 usually, and are cheap. They are slightly longer than the space between joists, and you just push them into place, and their sharp ends bite into the wood enough to hold up the insulation. Meausure your joist spacing to make sure you get the correct length rods -- you can't relay on standard. Paul’s right on the regular fiberglass. Remember that the paper side always is on the side of the living space, so in this case, the paper will be “up”. So, it makes stapling a little trickier. You can also put it up with steel rod insulation supports. They come in boxes of 100 usually, and are cheap. They are slightly longer than the space between joists, and you just push them into place, and their sharp ends bite into the wood enough to hold up the insulation. Meausure your joist spacing to make sure you get the correct length rods — you can’t relay on standard.

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